Treasure island: my guide to Sardinia
If the secret to a long and happy life exists, it can probably be found in Sardinia, where you’ll also find great beaches, vibrant cities, authentic rural living and the best food.
Originally published in: Holland Herald, March 2021 (see pdf below)
Forks clatter on plates filled with pasta as a melody of Italian voices graces the terrace of Sardinia’s oldest restaurant: Antico Caffè 1855 in Cagliari, the island’s capital. Positioned between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, the coastal city boasts mild temperatures practically all year round. While I wait for my trofie ai ricci (‘pasta with sea urchin’), I nibble on some pane carasau (‘flatbread’) and unwind after my trip from Rome. The walk from central station to Antico Caffè 1855 is pleasant. It takes you under the portici (‘arcades’) of Via Roma and up the steep Via Lepanto, a narrow street featuring small houses adorned with freshly washed laundry, before you arrive in Constitution Square.
So far, this whole experience feels pretty much like your typical Italian city break, which contradicts British author, D.H. Lawrence, who described Cagliari – upon his arrival in 1921 – as ‘not a bit like Italy’. Nevertheless, Sardinia has been influenced by lots of different cultures throughout the centuries. Its favourable position made it a popular target for Spanish, French and Genovese colonists. Long before that, roughly from 1900 BCE until 730 BCE (before the Romans arrived), an ancient Sardinian civilisation, called the Nuragic Culture, left its mark. The name derives from Sardinia’s most characteristic and mysterious monument, the Su Nuraxi di Barumini, a UNESCO-designated nuraghe: a defensive complex featuring stone towers, which can be found all over the island. In the coming days, travelling from Cagliari on the southern coast to Alghero and the Emerald Coast in the northern part of the island, I aim to find out just how much of those many influences can still be experienced in Sardinia.
Cagliari: the perfect city trip
After lunch, I continue my climb towards Castello, a former citadel and Cagliari’s most characteristic district. It has a curious mix of architectural styles: medieval buildings, such as the Tower of the Elephant and Cagliari Cathedral, with its colourful frescoes; but also the dreamy Royal Palace, the former residence of kings and queens that’s now a museum. The district is also home to Sardinia’s premier archaeological museum, which features relics of the past that are thousands of years old. But, one of my best discoveries is Via Santa Croce, a street that looks out over the lower parts of the city and the sea. It has a laid-back, bohemian vibe, like the rest of the Castello district. The best place for an aperitivo (‘aperitif’) is Libarium Nostrum, which has an excellent cocktail menu and turns out to be the perfect place to watch the sunset.
No place like home
That evening, I have dinner at Framento, one of the best pizzerias on the island. My table companion, Claudia Tavani, recommended the place. She’s a Cagliari native and travels the globe for her job as a full-time travel blogger, but wouldn’t trade her home in Sardinia for the world. “I feel that life is less fast-paced here than on the mainland,” Tavani says. “In Cagliari, I find the perfect combination of city life and nature. If it gets hot in the summer, all I have to do is hop on a bus to Poetto beach.” But, she quickly adds that Sardinia has more to offer than just pretty beaches. It also has authentic towns, such as Bosa and Castelsardo, and impressive natural formations including Gorropu Gorge, one of the deepest gorges in Europe, and Punta La Marmora, Sardinia’s highest peak.
The next day, I decide to discover a bit more of the city centre. Cagliari’s centro storico is roughly divided into four areas: Castello, the aforementioned medieval citadel; Marina, a multicultural area that’s adjacent to the port; Stampace, a former working-class district that houses the island’s most important Roman buildings; and the up-and-coming Villanova, an area with exclusive boutiques and Art Nouveau architecture. Cagliari is a small city of approx. 154,000 people, so all of these areas can be easily discovered by foot during a city trip of a few days.
The Stampace district is great for families and history lovers. I spend a quiet morning in the botanical gardens, before making my way through groups of students to Tigellio’s Villa – the remains of three Roman houses – and the amphitheatre, which is situated next to one of the University of Cagliari’s buildings and gives the neighbourhood a lively character. I stare at the ruins and imagine where the old Romans used to sit. Their positions were based on their status. The richest citizens, for example, had a seat with a view of the sea. During the summer, concerts and theatre plays are organised at this historical site. To the east of Stampace, you’ll find Villanova, a cool residential area. I’m positively surprised when I stumble upon Via San Saturnino, an open-air hall of fame for graffiti artists, completely covered in colourful tags and murals.
The next morning, I take a train to Alghero, a small city on the northwestern coast. Lots of cork trees, cacti, small villages and the occasional nuraghe make for great viewing as we shoot through the countryside. The journey affords me time to reflect on Cagliari. The hustle and bustle of scooters and cars, and the small streets with their pastel-coloured houses, made the city feel very Italian to me; but at the same time, I sometimes felt as though I was in another country. Maybe it was due to the many layers of different architectural styles, Poetto beach, or perhaps the wild flamingos at Molentargius Park, which gave Cagliari an exotic aspect.
Alghero: little Barcelona
When I arrive on the other side of the island, I discover a city that doesn’t quite feel Italian. As I walk down the boulevard towards the historical centre, Alghero’s shapes and colours remind me more of Spain. Standing at the the old entry gate, the Porta Terra Tower, local guide Antonio Morittu explains the city’s Spanish heritage to me. In the 14th century, Catalan colonists arrived in Alghero, expelled the residents and repopulated the city with Catalans. Although Sardinia was taken over by the Savoy family from Turin in 1720, the language remained.
Nowadays, about one quarter of the 43,000 inhabitants speak Catalan as their main language, although it’s becoming overshadowed by Italian. Morittu points out that the street signs are still in two languages. Born and raised in Alghero, he speaks both languages fluently. “Many people here are proud of the Catalan language as it makes Alghero unique, although some think that it shouldn’t be celebrated because it was forced upon us by colonists,” Morittu says. “I think all those layers of history make Alghero an interesting city.”
A good example of how all those different layers came together over the course of history is Alghero Cathedral. At first glance, the building’s neoclassical façade indicates that it was built in the 19th century, but as we walk around to the back, we discover its original portal in Gothic-Catalan style. “The construction started in 1567, but bits and pieces were added over the course of three centuries,” Morittu explains. As we continue south down Bastioni Marco Polo, we’re actually walking on what used to be the city walls. Old cannons that were collected from the sea around Alghero remind passers-by of its former defensive function. Nowadays, it’s the perfect place to raise a glass while watching the sun sink into the sea from one of the terraces.
Passing through the sand-coloured streets, a big canvas photograph of an elderly woman catches my eye. She’s looking into the lens, smiling cheerfully. The photo caption reads: ‘Filomena, 111 years old’. It’s part of an open-air exhibition on Sardinian centenarians by photographer Daniela Zedda. The island is a so-called ‘blue zone’, a region where people’s age exceeds the recognised average. It has fascinated researchers for years, but they haven’t been able to agree on its exact cause. “It’s probably a combination of DNA, an active lifestyle with a healthy diet, and the strong social cohesion,” Morittu says as we’re drinking glasses of prosecco – at the end of the tour – on the roof terrace of Hotel Catalunya, which is Alghero’s tallest building.
Emerald Coast: jet set hotspot
During the last part of my trip, I decide to discover the island’s most glamorous area by car, the fastest means of transportation on Sardinia. Although charming, the island’s train network is limited and most small towns are hard to reach by public transport. Departing from Alghero, I arrive at the Emerald Coast about three hours later. Starting in the 1960s, rich investors turned this part of the island into a popular holiday destination for the international jet set, with Porto Cervo as its capital. Thanks to the funds of Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, the area became a paradise for luxury holidays. Silvio Berlusconi held infamous parties at his villa here and celebs such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Steven Spielberg are known to frequent the glamorous beach resorts.
This luxury could have easily ruined the natural beauty of the area, but the Italian government ensures that it doesn’t happen. Arriving at Prince’s Beach, I’m astonished by the bright-emerald colour of the water, the beige-coloured rock formations that sometimes seem to take the shape of animals, and the soft, white sand. I understand why the prince was so enchanted by the beauty of the Sardinian coast. That night, I stay at Cervo Hotel, situated on the most beloved square of Porto Cervo: a great spot for people-watching as celebs regularly go for a stroll along the boulevard here. A town of just a few hundred residents, Porto Cervo becomes a vibrant hotspot full of luxury yachts during the summer months. I’m told that stars like to book one of the suites of Cervo Hotel because they can enjoy their holidays in privacy here: the concealed position of the hotel protects them from prying eyes.
Sardinian country life
Although I’ve enjoyed the luxury and glamour of the Emerald Coast, I long to see the ‘real’ Sardinian life. Driving inland, through hilly landscapes and impressive rock formations, passing herds of sheep and cows, I notice how the roads get bumpier as the landscape gets rougher. I pass through Orgosolo, which became famous thanks to the Italian 1960s movie, Banditi a Orgosolo, in which a shepherd is wrongly accused of murder and becomes a bandit. I see no signs of crime or bandits, but the otherwise inconspicuous town stands out because of something else: its large number of murals, which make Orgosolo is a must-visit for street-art enthusiasts. When I arrive in the town of Mamoiada, the locals are taking part in a carnival parade and are wearing dark, wooden masks and sheepskins with heavy bells. The traditional masks can be seen all year at the Museum of Mediterranean Masks, where you can learn about Sardinian costume traditions and their relation to ancient civilisations.
Open-air museum
On my last night on Sardinian soil, I sleep in an albergo diffuso (‘scattered hotel’). This new tourism trend started in Italy a few years ago when investors tried to breathe new life into historical landmarks by turning them into luxury accommodations, keeping the original look and feel intact. Albergo Diffuso Mannois, my home for the night, has several rooms scattered over Orosei, a beautiful village on the eastern coast of the island. Most of the buildings in the old centre date back to the Middle Ages and are very well maintained, making it seem like time has stood still here. I go for a walk and randomly enter the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate, stumbling upon frescoes from the 1400s. It’s hard to believe that Orosei is not a museum: people actually live among these historical artefacts like it’s no big deal.
Sardinia is an island of contradictions: luxurious resorts versus authentic villages, vibrant cities versus deserted dirt roads and mountain peaks versus gorges. The best way to explore all of its beauty is to simply throw your swimsuit and hiking boots in a suitcase, rent a car and go. I haven’t found the secret to a long and happy life yet; all the more reason to come back soon and continue my quest.
To stay
Hotel Miramare, Cagliari
In this small, charming boutique hotel, every room is designed according to a specific theme and boasts its own art exposition. During breakfast, you’ll have a beautiful view over the port. hotelmiramarecagliari.it
Marriott Hotel Cervo, Porto Cervo
This luxurious hotel in jet set hotspot Porto Cervo offers a view over the town’s main square. The rooms are bright, airy and tastefully decorated with furniture made by local artisans. marriott.com
Albergo Diffuso Mannois, Orosei
The rooms of this ‘scattered hotel’ are situated in renovated historical buildings in the beautiful town of Orosei: the perfect combination of authenticity and comfort. The breakfast with local products is the perfect start of your day. mannois.it
To eat
Framento, Cagliari
This prize-winning, cosy pizzeria is one of the best on the island. For the dough, a traditional Sardinian type of yeast is used, which makes the pizzas easily digestible. framento.it
Al bisbe 4, Alghero
This restaurant, located in a beautifully restored more than 500-year-old building, offers authentic, Sardinian dishes. albisbe.it
Al Pescatore, Porto Cervo
The very first restaurant that was opened in Port Cervo in the sixties, this is still a beloved hot spot for aperitivo or dinner, not in the least place because of its beautiful waterfront terrace. ilpescatorerestaurant.com
To do
Sella e Mosca
Sella e Mosca is Sardinia’s biggest wine producer. Their beautiful estate boasts a historical winery from 1903, original wine cellars and a shop. They offer tours and tasting sessions on a daily basis. sellaemosca.com
Alghero Tours
Antonio Morittu and his wife Gosia enthusiastically organise tours through the centre of Alghero, but also love to take sporty visitors on an adventurous hike or trekking outside of the city. algherotours.com
Trenino verde
This ‘little green train’ dates back to the 19th century, but nowadays just has a touristic function. It offers beautiful itineraries along the coast and through green valleys with great views. treninoverde.com
